Winemaker & owner
Josef & Georg Högl
“Högl is a family winery, with three generations living and working on the estate. Over the course of 60 years they did not only expand, their grape varieties and vinification methods also changed. To this day, all family members take an active part in the farm life. The Högl estate vinifies Riesling and Veltliner, complemented by Gelber Muskateller, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.”
“Our wine is not always a smooth affair. From time to time it might be unwieldy in its youth, but it always represents our ideas and our possibilities.”
Key terms that spring to mind: authenticity, sustainability and typicity, but also openness, the ability to learn and serenity. The grapes, the soil, the slate, the location and the overall of the terroir – should be mirrored in the finished product.
The wines from the Château la Tour de l’Evêque are full-bodied and mineral.
Grüner Veltliner Federspiel J&G
The centre of these vineyards is in the Spitzer Graben, but for many years they have also had a few vineyards out by the river, between Weißenkirchen and Loiben, where vision is born on the Oberhauser vineyard. In the vineyards down in the plain, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are grown on rather sandy soils: they are the entry point to the complex world of these two grape varieties. They are less terroir-emphasised than the steep slopes in the Graben, but are accessible earlier, more light-footed and the perfect companions through spring and summer.
In the nose fine-spicy, green apple, herbal aromas. On the palate tight, very spicy, notes of tobacco, fresh acidity, again apple paired with ripe pears. Pleasant, tobacco-like finish.
Riesling Smaragd Ried Bruck
The Bruck is made up of a collection of steep terraces and is a monument in terms of masonry. Mica slate, gneiss and sandstone characterise the subsoil, in which almost exclusively Rieslings are rooted. Cold air currents (from the Waldviertel) and warm air currents (from the Danube) meet here and create an interplay of high sugar content and lively acidity. The location exposes itself to the southwest and thus still gets sunshine on the long summer afternoons, which keeps the terraces warm even in the early hours of the night. This is one reason why the Bruck is a rather early site for the Spitzer Graben – although this is relative, as harvesting is rarely done before November.
The definitive representative of our terroir. Cool, firm, smoky, as well as thrusting and mineral. Over the years, numerous other nuances will develop. There are herbal aromas, fruity ones, and the structure is muscular, sinuous, but never overpowering; the acidity is high but well integrated; the wine’s potential is great. It reaches the height of its power between the third and the fifth year.
“Intense, complex fruit expression, quinces, papaya, lemon, leafy touch, powerful wine, balanced structure, savoury finish, long persistence.” – A la carte
A la carte: 94/100
Falstaff Weinguide 2020/21: 95/100
Jancis Robinson: 16/20